Militia Redux

When speaking of upcoming Fashion trend, the images we usually associate with this are those of women walking down the runway, often overlooking the impact of the men's market to the industry.  The following analysis was another assignment completed for a course at FIT, which addressed the upcoming trends you should expect to see for the fall/winter 2012/2013 season.

CATEGORY: Jackets
TREND: Militia/ Military

The war may be ending in Iraq, however many designers have geared their Fall/ Winter-  2012/ 2013 styles for battle.  Of course military styles are not new to fashion, we’ve seen pea coats, camouflage prints and jeep caps worn by both men and women on the streets, while army/navy stores have risen in popularity.  However this coming season Fall/Winter season will see multi-versions of the military jacket that will suit almost any occasion, while providing styles for various tastes.  Its Versatility = Impacting a Larger Market.

No other Designer was more influenced by this trend than Umit Benan.  One of his pieces mimicked that of a traditional field jacket with elements of a puffy coat and a water-resistant shell.  This type of jacket will appeal to both a young and mid-aged demographic for its laxed look.

Umit Benam autumn/winter 2012/2013

But in the same collection, Umit Benam designed the militia jacket as a wool tailored piece with a stand collar, proving the look to be versatile.  Doubling as both a suit jacket or paired with jeans.  This structured look goes well with 2012s fitted fashion that was seen all over Men’s runway shows.

Umit Benam autumn/winter 2012/2013

Ermanno Scervino autumn/winter 2012/13

 


 Emmano Scervino added length and less texture to his version of  the stand collar military jacket without converting it into a trench.  This look is a lot simpler but still a stand out from the traditional pea coat.












The stand collar is very reminiscent of the old French military uniforms, but Vintage inspired pieces passed through many runways.

The design by n-hoolywood borrows the belted mid-length structure from European uniforms of the past.  Its visually seamless structure and aged look will appeal to fashion forward men that wants to follow the combat trend without wearing a  garment that is double breasted, stand collar, four squared outside pockets, or field green color.

n-hoolywood autumn/winter 2012/13

Burberry’s belted and boxed shoulder gives this trench the look that popularized this style during WWI, when both the British and French armies wore this garment.  Trench coats, which are classic pieces, will re-rise in popularity this coming season.  The Prada coat is a similar structure with a dressier appeal.

Burberry Prorsum autumn/winter 2012/13

Prada autumn/winter 2012/13

In this piece, Tommy Hilfiger succeeds in recreating his own version of a military-esque coat.  Only with colors and fabric that liven up the pieces to a style that is generally dark.

Tommy Hilfiger autumn/winter 2012/13

 Although combative looks are generally from a older time period, designers have a knack for putting major spins on the originals.  So much so, that sometimes you have to look at the details of the garment to find its inspiration.

Ports 1961, has elements of the Eisenhower jacket with its cropped structure.  However, much of this styling would be amiss if the subtle shoulder flaps weren’t present.  

Ports 1961  autumn/winter 2012/13

This bomber jacket by Isamu Katayam is sure to appeal to a younger demographic with its twill body, leather sleeves and fur collar.  Multi-fabrics on pieces seem to be practiced by designers widely.

Backlash - Isamu Katayama autumn/winter 2012/13